WHAT IS A FLANKER?

image of Thierry Mugler A*Men flankers - Fragrantica

 

When I first heard the term “flanker”  I remember scratching my head. What in the heck is a perfume flanker? The only other time I’d heard the term used was in football for wide receiver.  In the world of fragrance, a flanker is the term used to describe a perfume released as a sequel to a previously released scent. You can think of it as a 2.0 or spin-off of the earlier version.

 

The idea makes sense, right? Consider the number of sequels that are constantly released in the film industry: Superman (5), Alien (7), Hellraiser (8) and Star Trek (10). The same concept that’s proven to be a winning formula in film is clearly working in perfumery as well. It’s easier to double down on the success of an existing hit than to start from scratch for a new formula which may or may not be successful. 

 

You only have to look at any perfume counter to realize how commonplace this trend is. In some cases the flanker ends up selling as well or even better than the original scent. Sure there’s too many of them, some say WAY too many, but they aren’t all dumbed down versions of the original. Some have become famous perfumes in their own right.

 

There are several different breeds of flankers. The most common is the alteration of the original perfume flanker, which starts out seemingly the same as the prototype but then amplifies a particular accord or adds  a new note to alter the impression. Another type is the seasonal flanker. Some perfume houses release “summer” editions of their fragrances, which are typically lighter versions of the originals, more appropriate to warmer weather. Yet another type of flanker is the symbolic variety, where the scent smells completely different and is merely capitalizing on the name of its predecessor.

 

Flankers often have the same name as an earlier release but with another word or two added, i.e. Chanel Coco and Coco Mademoiselle or Dior Poison and Hypnotic Poison. They often come in the same or very similar bottle with changes in the color of the juice or an added decorative detail on the packaging.

 

Some perfumes have just one flanker but the majority have multiple flankers of the pillar fragrance. Most often flankers are released within one to five years after the original. Calvin Klein has been regularly releasing annual flankers of CK One Summer since 2004 and flankers of L’Eau d’Issey are in the double digits.

L’Eau d’Issey Issey Miyake perfume

 

With almost half of all annual fragrance launches being flankers, the obvious question is which ones would be successful on their own rights. I obviously can’t compare them all but from the ones that I have, these are clear winners over their originals:

Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior

 

Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior – The original Poison with its legendary spicy, woody and fruity notes is mesmerizing but this flanker has a seductive softness that blooms on your skin. It’s incredibly deep, dark and sexy.

 

flanker to Estee Lauder Sensuous

Sensuous Nude – a lovely warm, creamy and romantic scent

Sensuous Nude by Estee Lauder – While the original Sensuous is  a very pretty woody oriental, Sensuous Nude has a subtle coconut-infused lusciousness with just the right amount of musk and powder. I also prefer Sensuous Noir to the pillar fragrance but this is my favorite of the gang.

 

Tom Ford Orchid Soleil – Black Orchid flanker

Tom Ford Orchid Soleil – Tom Ford’s first scent, Black Orchid, is loved by men and women around the world and does indeed have a gorgeous opening. But I actually prefer its summer version, Orchid Soleil, with its intoxicating blend of tuberose and vanilla. This warm, glow scent is an instant mood booster. Count me a fan! ?

 

Is there a flanker that you prefer even more than the original? Feel free to chime in below with your thoughts on flanker hits and/or misses!

 

Until the next time,

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6 comments

  1. Latricia says:

    This is a very good article on the idea of a flanker. After reading this post, I feel very informed on this subject and very well educated. This is something I will consider the next time I buy perfume.